The refinishing process involves stripping the old lacquer finish off the piano, prepping the wood veneer by cleaning, sanding, filling the grain, staining or toning the color, and finally applying multiple coats of a new finish material. The piano’s final appearance may be satin or gloss depending on the desired result and process. | |
Other cosmetic items include gilding and lettering the cast-iron plate, nickel or brass plating the hardware, upgrading and repairing case parts such as the legs, lyre, and music desk, selecting appropriate decals, and of course refurbishing the bench. | |
Figured-wood Veneer with a Clearcoat Finish: |
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Strip, sand, repair case details and veneer | |
Repair structural damage or splitting to lid & rim | |
Faux grain on caseparts where applicable | |
Stain and colortone | |
Grain fill and seal | |
Spray multiple layers of clear nitrocellulose lacquer | |
Rub to a high-end finish (specify satin or gloss) | |
Replace original fallboard decal | |
Polish nickel or brass hardware or replate where plating is worn | |
Refinish underside of piano | |
Ebonized Finish: |
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Strip, sand, repair case details and veneer | |
Repair structural damage or splitting to lid & rim | |
Grain fill and seal | |
Spray multiple layers of ebony nitrocellulose lacquer | |
Rub to a high-end finish (specify satin or gloss) | |
Replace original fallboard decal | |
Polish nickel or brass hardware or replate where plating is worn | |
Refinish underside of piano | |
Upgrading Caseparts: |
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Many of the ornate Victorian Era caseparts were “modernized” at some point in a piano’s history. Luckily, there are several sources for replicas ranging from various styles of legs, lyres, lyre braces, music desks, lids and benches. It is often more cost effective to replace a bench with a new one anyway, rather than trying to repair and refinish an old cheap one. |
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